Monday, May 26, 2014

Light and Airy Summer Weaving

Memorial Day being the unofficial start of summer here, I have started my summer project which is to learn about gauze (crossed-warp) weaving, also called leno weave (there's a whole digression on the terms but many people use them interchangeably).  The movement that the warp ends make is similar to sprang, except that a weft is thrown to hold the twists in place.

I got a copy of the 1980 Shuttle Craft Guild Monograph #32 Doup Leno by Hella Skowronski and Sylvia Tacker, and I plan to go through it like a textbook.

This sample is the first "exercise", a simple threading the same all across the width of the warp, 1/1 twists in pairs, all in the same direction.  It is 10/2 cotton.  I set it at 16 epi based on an old article on leno by Mary Meigs Atwater in her Shuttle Craft Bulletin, where she suggests that a warp setting of 2/3 the "normal" is appropriate for leno.  The next sample will be at 20 epi as a comparison.

Weaving this sample, I learned there is quite a variety of treadling variations possible, basically varying the number of plain weave picks before the twisted pairs return to their original position.  That number can be anything from zero to several.


  1. The Leno hammock I wove about 30 years ago is still in good shape. We didn't even use fine threads then but I remember it was slow going. So what - process is key! I'm sure your results will be beautiful.

    1. A hammock in leno; how cool is that! I am using doups, so the weaving for me is going pretty fast.

  2. Can't wait to see what you will do with this structure. I am always amazed with your results.

  3. I have only done small samples in Leno and ages ago. Was very pretty and pretty slow. Look forward to your results.🐈